Wednesday, July 27, 2011

A defense of the Ebbitt

Earlier this year, Tom Sietsema of the Washington Post released his 2011 Spring Dining Guide, in which he revisited restaurants he hadn't been to in a long time.  Now, I normally like Tom's reviews, and I tend to agree with him much of the time.  However, I do feel (and many others agree) that he has some clear biases - overrating places such as Rasika and Jaleo while hating on others on a continuing basis. 

Now, I also have biases.  One of my biases is my liking of the Old Ebbitt Grill (I'm on my way there in a few minutes).  Which is why I took umbrage with his uncharacteristic beating of the Ebbitt in this dining guide.  It wasn't just a bad review, it was almost uncomfortable to read.  And at least one reader (me) detected an almost childlike enthusiasm for reaffirming what he'd long held to be true - that the Ebbitt was a terrible restaurant.

Now, there are a lot of drawbacks to the Clydes family of restaurants, which owns and operates the Ebbitt.  Through the years, they have gotten less seasonal and experimental with their menu, and many now closely resemble each other with their cooking.  Call it cheap, call it complacency, but Clyde's isn't what it once was.

Having said that, I find several glaring points of disagreement with Tom's review.  The Ebbitt almost needs to be treated as two separate restaurants - the sit-down dining rooms, and the bars (there are four).  I cannot accurately recall the last time I sat at a table at the Ebbitt, for good reason.  Most of the "charm" of the Ebbitt is decor and location, after that wears off, its forgettable food. Ask any Ebbitt regular and I bet they'd say the same thing - they never go to the dining room, they always hit one of the bars.  Now to be fair, its not Tom's job to review bars, but the food is from the same kitchen. 

The bars have some of the most professional, longest serving bar tenders in the city.  Walk in and be polite to both your fellow customers and the staff, and you will be treated in kind.  Walk in and act like an asshole, and well, be treated in kind (I say this as a good thing, for I do not act like an asshole [at a bar], and therefore appreciate the sentiment).  Having a small knowledge of inside Clyde's corporate knowledge (no I have never worked there), I can also tell you that if you complain about service, that is acted upon, sometimes harshly.

Another point Sietsema fails to give the Ebbitt sufficient credit for - the raw bar.  I have never once had a bad oyster at the Ebbitt (full disclosure, I did at Tower Oaks, a sister restaurant).  This is something so few restaurants do well, and the Ebbitt is among the best.  And that, my friends, deserves at least a modicum of credit.  I'd also mention that the entire raw bar is half price during happy hour and late night - you can get a dozen fresh oysters for less than 15$.

Finally, Sietsema contradicts his own review structure when assessing the Ebbitt.  He claims to assess restaurant performance on what it is TRYING to be, the niche it is trying to carve in the market.  The Ebbitt is a money factory no doubt (on the top 10 highest grossing privately owned restaurants in the country).  As I said earlier, their dining room target audience isn't a downtown office worker, its the tourist from the White House or the weekend your parents are in town and you just need somewhere to go.  No, its not a relaxing place to eat, its huge, its bustling, its crowded.  But it FEELS historic, the food is consistent, and thats one reason why they make SO much money.

The other reason?  As I mentioned earlier - the bars, whose target audience IS the downtown worker, and they do it quite well.  The Ebbitt makes more money off of alcohol than many other restaurants on the top lists, and this is a main reason why.

The Ebbitt isn't Citronelle, Komi, or Cityzen.  But it's not trying to be.  It excels at satisfying both of its target audiences, and provides an awesome raw bar at a good price while doing it.  For that it deserved more than a half star.

Monday, July 25, 2011

Brunch at Masa 14

This past weekend, the MTB and I participated in a going away weekend for a friend of ours, that included about a dozen people for the various festivities.  For Sunday brunch, we tried Masa 14 - a relatively new restaurant on 14th St in the District.  Throughout the rest of the day, a smaller sub-group of us kept trying to figure out just what had happened and brunch and whether or not we liked it.

14th St on a Sunday at noon is pretty quiet.  A lot of the bars and restaurants are closed, and many in the neighborhood haven't ventured out of their hangovers yet.  With that in mind, as you step into Masa's small entrance, its total sensory confusion as you are treated to a jam packed restaurant where conversation can best be accomplished by shouting over your fellow diners and the BOOM CHA NTSY NTSY of the stereo blasting out club tunes above your head.  (half way through our brunch they switched to modern up-tempo jazz - a more apt alternative)

So here is the set up - unlimited "small plates" and alcoholic beverages (from a list of about 6 options) for $35.  By now, we've probably all eaten somewhere offering the small plates concept - the food comes out as its ready and is plopped in the middle of the table.  Now imagine that scenario in a group of 12 mostly hungover twenty-somethings trying to hear each other over the roar.  12 people x 3 dishes ordered in first round = 36 plates coming out of the kitchen with no label and little explanation.  People trying to a. figure out what it is, b. figure out if they ordered it, and c. irregardless of (b.) trying to figure out if they want a bite on the way by.

Absolute chaos.

Now, we're a bunch of reasonably well-mannered individuals who try not to be total jerks in public, but there was no way that this set up wasn't stressful.  Take me as an example - I just wanted my pho sandwich (I'll come back to this later).  So every plate that it came out, if it wasn't the pho sandwich, I wasn't interested.  20 minutes go by.  I also know I'm the only one that ordered this, so I cast a keen eye toward each plate to protect my order should it be placed in front of someone else.  This isn't how brunch should be.  Brunch should be relaxed.  Brunch should be quiet (until football starts), relaxing, etc.

The food - all in all, the food was ok to really pretty good, considering how many plates the kitchen was putting out at a very fast rate of speed.  I had the sauteed cauliflower, which had a nice bite with heavy soy sauce - would've been a lot better had it been a bit warmer.  Also had the Masa Chicken Salad, which was a vinegar-based dressing with veggies and chicken - refreshing on a hot day.  And then the previously stated Pho sandwich - sliced beef round with pickled onions, jalapeno, sprouts and a sriracha dressing was definitely a dish I'd get again.  The fried rice was good, but at the end of the day, its fried rice.  I really enjoyed the berries with yogurt, and the tenderloin benedict was very good.  One caveat - this is small plates in name only.  Some of these sandwiches, particularly the burgers, were full-sized. 

So back to the debate.  Several of the group said they didn't mind doing it once but would never go back.  I personally thought the concept would work much better with 4 people rather than 12 - I don't fault the restaurant that our party was abnormally large and hence we sort of 'broke' the system.  But consider the value - 35$ for bottomless food and drink sounds good, right?  But its not hard to find a brunch in DC offering 5$ bottomless mimosas and mary's, so its essentially 30$ for unlimited food - a similar price of many buffets in the area.  So it really comes down to individual tastes and how much you can eat.  I could have easily walked out of here with the Pho sandwich and the berries and yogurt  -$12 as ordered off the menu.  Of course, I probably ended up eating closer to $40 worth by the time all was said and done.  I also felt the food here was better and fresher than what you'd find on a buffet.

Would I go back?  Probably, with a small group, on a special occasion.  But I'd be tempted to hit Front Page's quiet bar on a Sunday morning again before I'd revisit Masa 14.

Friday, July 22, 2011

The art of the Saturday lunch

Saturday lunch is one of the great luxuries of life that too many people fail to take advantage of.  Saturday lunch shouldn't be rushed, it shouldn't be drive thru fast food or a frozen dinner from a box.  This is 'Me' time, and while company is occasionally ok, dining solo can also be just the ticket.

What makes it so great?  Well, first of all, there is the freedom.  Go at 11, go at 3, stay for one hour or four, who cares, its Saturday.  Secondly, you can go wherever the hell you want - which is really the great advantage of dining solo.  And thirdly, there's booze.  This is the one occasion where you won't see me drinking Miller Lite - chances are I'm only having a few, so I'll pick a heavy beer that packs an ABV punch and has actual taste (Yes, I still love my Miller Lite).  A few of my Saturday favorites:

- Clydes Tower Oaks Lodge, Rockville, Maryland.  One of the great parts about TOL is its location - its located just north of the beltway off 270, tucked back in a empty (on a Saturday) office park on a grassy, wooded lot.  It's that perfect distance to feel like you've actually gone somewhere and done something without really leaving town.  The bar area is large and dark without feeling like you're doing something wrong by being there in the day time.  There's a bunch of camping shit on the wall, the beer list is good, and the cocktails are strong.  Man time?  Check. 

The bartenders are professional, able, but not intrusive.  The food at Tower Oaks is the best of any Clydes restaurant, and there is a half off raw bar during lunch on Saturdays.  There are TVs if you want to watch the game, but they aren't intrusive.  Normal bar capacity on a Saturday at noon: 30%.  This is Saturday lunch nirvana.

- Dogfish Ale Brew House, Falls Church/Seven Corners, VA.  As the name suggests, this place has the beer factor down pat.  A long list of interesting brews that will get you drunk faster than you can say TAXI!  The food, well, the food is passable.  The rule of thumb here is the worse the food is for you, the better they cook it.  They have a sampler of fried food that will make your cardiologist cry.  It does have a bit of a family restaurant vibe to it, but there aren't too many kids here at lunch on Saturday.  The bartenders definitely know their beer, so take advantage and ask for their recommendations.  There are TVs but, similar to TOL, they aren't obtrusive.  Usual bar capacity at noon on a Saturday is about 70%.

- Coastal Flats, Tysons Corner Mall, McLean VA.  This restaurant does better than most at enabling you to forget you are in a mall.  And unlike other mall restaurants, they pay attention to their bar and the business it gets.  The beer menu is somewhat limited, but they do have their house brand beer that is actually pretty decent.  There are flat screen TV's on two sides of the bar that are easily visible but aren't in your face.  The bar staff tends to stick around this place, so they're pros and recognize you after a few visits.  The food is also pretty good, if a bit on the high priced side for a Saturday lunch.  The shrimp and grit cakes are money, as are the filet tips pasta. 

And after you visit any of these three comes the best part of Saturday lunch - the nap.

Thursday, July 21, 2011

When you just want a quiet little cocktail...

The MTB and I have been scouting rehearsal dinner locations over the past few weeks (or months) - a journey that took us to Birreria Paradiso the other evening, located under Pizzeria Paradiso in Georgetown.  We thought it would be perfect!  Fun, good food, great beer, private space.  What I never noticed was the sheer volume of 50 people talking all at the same time.  WHAT?  I SAID I NEVER NOTICED THE SHEER VOLUME OF 50 PEOPLE TALKING ALL AT THE SAME TIME.  It was mind-numbing.  It was ear-splitting.  It was out of contention for a rehearsal dinner.

Cut to last night at Whitlow's on Wilson in Clarendon.  Wednesday nights aren't known to be big nights out in NoVa, and there wasn't a great special last night, but yet Rosa and I found each other shouting to hear each other in our booth.  What gives, is everyone just getting louder (doubtful) or are we just getting old (probable)?

If you want a quiet place to grab a cocktail and a bite to eat, here are a few basics:
  • Hotels and their restaurants tend (TEND to) be quieter than most other establishments.  The downside?  That is largely because no one wants to eat in their restaurants.  Stay away from the Hiltons of the world when it comes to dining, and hotel restaurants can be good AND intimate  
  • In DC, if its in Chinatown, its going to be loud.  Even places that shouldn't be or are a bit tucked away (the upstairs bar at Clydes in Gallery Place comes to mind) get raucous when there are special events at the Verizon Center.
  • If a place is "hot", it's going to be loud.  Graffiato in DC is by far the hottest ticket in town right now, and each review I've heard talks about the roar.
  • Outdoor patios are a great place to escape the noise.  The bar at Bourbon Steak at the 4 Seasons can get noisy on weekend evenings, but step out onto the patio (one of the best in DC) and its very relaxing.

A few honorable mentions for a conversation:

  • Boulevard Woodgrill in Clarendon - regular readers know I'm a fan of the happy hour here.  Because it's rarely 'packed' its usually very pleasant to have a conversation
  • Blue Duck Tavern - the restaurant is spacious enough that it never gets too noisy (see previous hotel comment).  The food is also excellent, though the drink menu is overpriced by about $2 per drink.
  • Old Ebbitt Oyster Bar - the Ebbitt is huge and can be way too loud in the main dining room, but slip into this hard-to-find area of the restaurant around the back side of the Walrus Bar, and it's much more amenable to conversation.
  • New Heights - small bar but severely underrated.  Great drinks and food make this a short-lister for anyone in the area.  Both the bar downstairs and dining room upstairs are quiet without being stuffy.
  • Caucus Room - Ok I'm breaking my own rule here.  This restaurant is kinda sorta in Chinatown.  Its also spacious and not very busy.  Yes the food is expensive, but the drinks aren't too over-priced.
  • Monocle - this Capitol Hill mainstay on the Senate side could not be more old school unless its name was the Prime Rib (also a quiet spot, though I haven't been to or seen a bar there).  The Monocle does get a bit more crazy in December around holiday parties.

Wednesday, July 20, 2011

The Downside to Group-based Online Deals

Groupon and Living Social are two of the fastest growing technology companies in the world.  We all know the drill, you get an email for a great deal (usually at least 50% off) and when a certain number of people also buy into the deal, it's triggered and you get the coupon.  By far the most popular types of Groupons are the 'going out' deals for restaurants, bars, etc.

But am I the only one who isn't a fan?  I feel like this is akin to Restaurant Week, except that not everyone in the restaurant is in on the gig.  So I have to pull out the coupon, present it to the waiter, only to be treated like a second class citizen since 90% of the users probably don't tip on what the bill SHOULD have been without the coupon.  Ok, maybe I just feel like a second class citizen and the servers don't care.  But the point is, I feel uncomfortable.

But even more of a problem lies in the essence of their business model - having the GROUP in the Groupons.  Take today's deal for example - Cafe Asia here in DC.  So far, almost 1,700 people have bought this deal.  That means that for the next two months, Cafe Asia will be jammed with people.  It will be jammed with people - many of whom would not otherwise be at Cafe Asia.  So, when I go in to get my Kirin Ichiban on tap and my Tom Yum Soup to-go (a weekly-or-so trek for me), I will have to fight through a crowd of customers, argue with cranky servers, and receive food that probably isn't as good as usual (see the previous Restaurant Week comparisons?).

Maybe Cafe Asia will weather the storm better than some.  Recently, Bucks Fishing and Camping in Northwest DC did a Groupon promotion.  Bucks is a relatively expensive place with a stellar reputation, so this was a deal worth getting.  Problem was, everyone that I heard from who went said the food and service sucked and the restaurant was overwhelmed.

I guess while they were getting their overcooked steak and bad service at Bucks, I was quietly enjoying my Kirin Ichiban on draft while waiting for my Tom Yum Soup from Cafe Asia.  Ohhhh, those were the days...

Tuesday, July 19, 2011

Changes to Cap City Brewery

There aren't a lot of options for sit-down places to eat on the senate side of Capitol Hill.  The Monocle, Johnny's Half Shell, and until last Saturday, Capitol City Brewery in the Postal Square building.  But fear not liquid lunchers, while Cap City may be have served their last pint in their old location last weekend, they'll soon be opening a new restaurant inside Union Station.

Can I get a quick amen for a decent restaurant in Union Station?  According to the City Paper, they are also consolidating brewing operations to their Shirlington outpost after a new manager took over this past spring and is trying to clean up the beer business a bit.  They'll still have the CCB classics like Amber Waves Ale and Capitol Kolsch, they just hope to improve the quality a bit - and lets face it, there was room for improvement there.

Friday, July 15, 2011

Boulevard Woodgrill

Every time I'm at Boulevard Woodgrill for happy hour, I'm both happy that the rest of Clarendon has turned its back on this place, while surprised its not packed every weeknight.

The BW has been around for awhile - its one of those places you can trace to a culinary fad (I think the name gives away which fad I'm referring to) but that has stuck around - albeit in need of an update, both in decor and menu.  The restaurant is large without being expansive, and has a long bar running down one side with ample patio seating outdoors in nice weather.

But I've never sat outside, and never sat in the dining room - and don't expect to.  At the bar (only) from 5-7, all appetizers are half price, with various drink specials on most of their beers (4$), house wine, and rail liquors.  Every time the MTB and I go, we get the Beef Bruschetta - slices of filet mignon on top of toasted bread with tomato, mozzarella, basil and drizzled with balsamic.  Its a pretty hefty appetizer that can make a light meal - for $5.25.  Firecracker chicken is a plate of standard boneless hot wings  - $4.75.  A serviceable caprese salad, egg rolls, seafood options and artichoke dips round out the bar menu. 

This isn't gourmet.  Some food options are better than others.  But its quiet, its not pretentious, the service is attentive and the food is sufficient.  The MTB and I can go in, get a few apps and a few drinks and walk out with a $25 bill.  And we can do that while being able to have a conversation and without feeling like we're in the middle of a kickball beer pong tournament.  A winner all around.

Those crafty folks at Jet Blue are at it again

Authorities have been warning residents of southern California to the upcoming calamity for months.  In recent weeks, news of the impending doom has spread across the country as the rest of us watch and be glad we aren't in this thick of the mess.  This weekend, the California Department of Transportation is shutting down the 405, one of the busiest and most jammed interstates in the country.  Some shuttle companies are estimating this 38 mile trek will take more than 4 hours during the shut down as millions scramble to find alternative routes to the beach.

Have you ever been stuck in traffic and thought, GOD I wish I could just fly over this mess?  Well now you can.  Jet Blue is offering 4$ flights (each way, plus taxes and fees) between Burbank and Long Beach - again, a 38 mile trip.  So, for 18$, you get a round trip flight that is gate-to-gate in 40 minutes.

While this is almost assuredly a money-loser in the short term for Jet Blue (the average cost to operate a A319 per hour is around $1,900, with shorter allowances for fuel but full crew costs, it probably costs Jet Blue around $1,200 to make these hops with a capacity of around 150 passengers netting $600 for loss of $600 per flight), what they make up in advertising and customer loyalty dollars is worth its weight in gold, and is a heck of a lot cheaper than a full spread of television advertising.

Thursday, July 14, 2011

Summer 2011 Restaurant Week dates announced

RAMW has just announced the dates of this year's summer restaurant week, to be held this August 15 - 21st.  Restaurant week can be a disaster with restaurants too often offering reduced quality and portions to a large number of new patrons.  One way to beat this is to find some of the many restaurants that extend restaurant week to include extra weeks or even the entire month of August - that way you get the good prices without having to fight through as many people. 

More info: http://restaurantweekmetrodc.org/

The Tap Dance

Hamilton's is a strange bar.  It's one of those bars that defies classification.  Not quite a dive bar (too big, too bright), not quite a college bar (not big enough and they check ID's), not a sports bar (the actual bar isn't big enough and TV's not prominent enough) and definitely not a lounge.  It is also in a downright strange location, nestled next to the HUD headquarters in an area between Judiciary Square and Capitol Hill.  So why is this place crowded on a Saturday afternoon?

The tap dance.

Americans love a good drinking contest.  I mean let's be honest, we love any opportunity to show our individual dominance in any area of life, and if you add drinking to the mix, well that's just the tops. 

The Tap Dance sounds deceptively easy.  The rules: drink one pint of beer from each of the bar's 10 taps, in order, in under three hours for a price of $35.  If you complete this successfully, you get a t-shirt.  If I had been designing the shirt it would have said "I had to endure a 2 day hangover because of the tap dance and all I got was this stupid t-shirt", but alas, I'm not the tshirt designer.  If you vomit, you have to be an extra 20$ clean up fee.

So my first introduction to the TD was at a birthday party that was attended by a few bartenders, who were taking on the challenge.  Three beers in and they were sipping water and slowing down.  What the hell?  I laugh at this challenge, and I scoff at you for not being able to do laps around it.

Several months later, I took it on myself one afternoon with a friend.  The first thing you have to know about the TD, is that most everyone else at the bar on a weekend is doing the same thing.  The second thing you have to know, is that very few other people in this world can hold their liquor as well as you can (the "you" being particular to YOU, fair reader, for we do not annoy ourselves when drinking, right?).  In other words, prepare for amateurs and the antics therein.  Thirdly, I would HIGHLY recommend not drinking at lunch earlier in the day, as I had (oh back off, it was a Saturday [ok that was purely a happy coincidence]).

Those little fuckers at Hamiltons start you off with the light beers, the easy stuff.  10 miller lites?  No problem. But not being totally stupid, we order food (they have tater tots, being the perfect food for this challenge). Around beer 4, something strange happens.  I start to get drunk.  If you even a casual reader of this blog, you realize that 4 beers is not normally a problem for me.  By beer 6 I'm starting to eye the remaining taps with concern.  What is happening to me?  Can the beer change every glass really have this big of an effect, and if so, why didn't I add more variety a long time ago? 

Clipper City Loose Cannon, I hate you.  You are beer number 9.  You are a thick IPA, bitter as can be, high ABV, and you are kicking my ass.  I consider resigning, except that I have a certain reputation to maintain with the friend I am there with.  I gulp water.  I eat tater tots.  I slow down.  I conquer the Clipper City.

The last beer on the taps is a Guinness.  Like a horse to the barn, I'm feeling that last burst of extra energy.  I CAN DO THIS!  I CAN WIN MY CRAPPY T SHIRT!  I take a sip. My friend, who hasn't taken a sip of water and frankly seems bored at this point, asks the bartender to bring him the liquor to make his last guinness an irish car bomb.  I die a bit inside.

I have never been so happy to get a crappy tshirt (which for reasons known only to the alcohol, I requested in a size way too large for me so I can never even wear it) and have never worked so hard for one.  What do two people do after winning the tap dance?  Sit around the bar and drink miller lite for another three hours.  With two months between me and the day after hangover, I can now say that, all and all, it wasn't a bad way to spend a Saturday afternoon.

Wednesday, July 13, 2011

Cava Mezze

The first Cava Mezze burst onto the DC restaurant scene a few years ago, infusing the small plates concept with a greek-inspired flair to its first location on Capitol Hill.  Since then, Cava has turned into a marketing machine, pumping out branded hummus, tabouleh and other mediterranean products to grocery stores all over the DMV, in addition to opening additional outposts in Rockville and Bethesda.  These folks are making some bank.

Last weekend, the newest branch from the Cava team opened in Clarendon (near Circa), and the MTB (missus-to-be) and I stopped in for a happy hour and some initial thoughts last night.

The restaurant is VERY Clarendon - if you've been in a restaurant in Clarendon in the last two years, you know what I mean. Sparse space, with a lot of stained wood warming up the metal and granite warehouse look. Overall the restaurant is a bit smaller than I was expecting, so the call-ahead premier seating Sunday-Thursday may come in handy (not accepted Fri-Sat). I did hear the staff discussing opening an outdoor space after the restaurant has a chance to stretch its legs a bit.

Interesting drink list - quite a few house cocktails that go beyond the norm, with a respectable wine list, including a lot of choices by the glass. Beer selections weren't too adventurous but did go beyond the Bud Light/Miller Light with Mythos and a few microbrew options. I started with a great Cucumber and Jalapeno Margarita that wasn't too sweet, wasn't too spicy, and was refreshing on a hot day.

Being as this was just a happy hour, we got an order of the Hummus and an order of the Crazy Feta - Feta cheese whipped with chunks of Jalapeno. The MTB enjoyed the hummus (I have yet to find a hummus I enjoy), while my Crazy Feta was crazy good (sorry, couldn't resist), but I wouldn't order by myself again - your life concierge doesn't need to be eating big balls of whipped cheese all by himself. Both came with bottomless warm pita bread - good pita but certainly not Zaytinya level.  The bread comes with any food order, along with a trio of comped snacks - olive oil for dipping, greek olives, and an awesome Harissa - the version here is mild with both a tang and a bit of a bite.

The one major drawback - there was no happy hour, at least not on a Tuesday night. In fact the staff almost seemed proud of this fact. Its Clarendon, its a Tuesday night, there are 20-30 options of other places to go within two blocks, all of which offer some sort of happy hour discount. While we enjoyed our experience overall, I won't be quick to drop another $60 at Cava when I can spend 1/3 of that down the street for after work drinks and a snack.

And I'm back

Two years ago, I stopped writing on this blog.  I'd simply run out of things to say.

Since then, I've switched jobs (many times), moved to Iowa, moved back to DC, and gotten engaged.  So here we go - a new perspective, new experiences and new neighborhoods to write about (Oh my God I live in Virginia).  Glad to be back.